A Study of the Liturgical and Non-Liturgical Vestments worn by Catholic Christian Priests and Bishops.

Prabhjot Kaur and Ruby Joseph

Government Home Science College, Sector-10, Chandigarh India

ABSTARCT:

From time immemorial ,Religion has effected clothing of its believers and leaders.Christianity is one of the most popular religion in the western world.Its followers are called Catholic Chistians,if they participate in all the sacraments,are obedient to discipline and government of the Church and have orthodox belief. This study is an attempt to make people aware of the political, religious and social heritage of clergy in form of vestments with particular reference to garments, ornaments, head dresses and foot wear. In the present study, data was collected by interview cum Questionnaire method. The sample was collected only from two diocese -Jalandhar and Shimla -Chandigarh almost covering whole Northern India.Data was analysed and coded.Findings of the study are that Vestments are basically of two types- liturgical and non liturgical. Clerical dress of Diocesian Priest and Bishop is Cassock and tunic. Bishop wears Alb, Stole, Cope, Pectoral cross, Mitre, Pastoral staff, Humeral veil , ring, sash, skull cap, chasuble, Black cassock with cape finished with scarlet piping, cincture etc depending on different occasion such as Mass ,Baptism, Confirmation,,Communion,Matrimony, Anointing, Liturgy of hours, Celebration of mysteries of the lord,Blessings and Funeral, while Priests wear Alb, cassock , Chasuble and stole. Six liturgical colours used for vestments are White, red, green, violet, black, rose and Gold which are used to give effective, outward expression to the specific character of the mysteries of the faith being celebrated to a sense of progress in the Christian life.To conclude,Liturgical Vestments express the nature of the occasion and to a certain extent define the respective role or rank of each participant.They add a symbolism and effectiveness in the communication pattern during worship reflecting concepts of majesty, mystery ,revelation ,incarnation ,sacrifice and communion.

KEY WORDS- Classification of Vestments, Accessories, Liturgical Colours, Celebration of Sacraments

INTRODUCTION:

From time immemorial, religion has affected clothing of the common people and its believers.(Ghurye,1991) Religion all over the world has a head or incharge known by different names i.e. Pujari, Priests, Bhajj etc. who are charged with the duty of believing and deciding for the faithful.(Brow,1966) Church is a vast body having group of Clergy invested with ecclesiastical authority organized in grades, order or ranks whose duty is to administer sacred things. The head of the Church is the Pope who exercises his authority from Vatican in Rome. He has committee of Cardinals assisting him. Below cardinal, there are Archbishops who are head of the Priests in Metropolitan cities i.e. Delhi, Bombay etc. Then there are Bishops who govern a territorial area called Diocese and have got the ecclesiastical jurisdiction for it from Pope. Below Bishop, there is Auxiliary Bishop who assists him and then Archpriest who are chief of all the priests. Then comes Priest who are mediators authorized to offer the true sacrifice by which God Supreme dominion over human belong is acknowledged and atonement for their sins occurs. Below priest there is Deacon and then comes normal faithful people who believe in church. Each article of vestments have significance for them as it relates to life, death, resurrection of Jesus Christ and symbolize the function proper to each ministry but also contribute to the beauty of rite. (The new Encylopedia Britannica, 1973-74)

AIMS AND OBJECTIVES:-

1. To study the vestments worn by Priests and Bishops on different occasions

2. To study the significance of all Vestments.

3. To study significance of different liturgical colours used in the vestments.

4. To study briefly about the Christian culture and customs related to vestments.

DELIMITATIONS:

1. Study was limited to two dioceses i.e. Jallandhar and Shimla - Chandigarh.

2. Numbers of respondents were limited to 52.

3. Vestments worn by Priests belonging to Latin rite were studied.

4. The study is limited to the Vestments of Bishops and Priests of Catholic Church hierarchy.

METHODOLOGY:

In the present study, Data was collected by Interview cum Questionnaire method. 52 Respondents including 25 Priests from Jallandher and 25 from Simla-Chandigarh Diocese and 2 Bishops (one of Jallandhar and other of Chandigarh Shimla diocese) were interviewed. Information obtained was analysed and coded .Information regarding the vestments was also obtained from Liturgical centre, actual manufacturing units of Vestments in India, New Delhi.

REVIEW OF LITURATURE:

Christianity takes its name from “Jesus Christ” and sprang from Judaism whose many central concepts are incorporated into Christianity.( Encylopedia of world Religion, 1975) According to Encylopedia Britannica“Vestments are Ceremonial garments worn by officers of Church at all times of ministration as distinct from Clerical costume worn every day(Encylopedia Britannica, 1768). “A study of the Headdresses of Sikhs of Rural and Urban Punjab” by Raizda -1987 revealed width, length,parameters content,colour , design,wearing styleof sikh men their relationship with socio economic facters . “A study of the traditional costumes of Nihangs Of Punjab” by Dharni in 1992 revealed long skirted, multipanel loose tunic kalidar kurta as the main dress.Kes, Kangha, kacha, Kara and Kirpan were must.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS:

Priest and Bishops are most important members of the Catholic Church hierarchy. Each article of vestment worn by them and symbols used have its significance as it relates to life, death, resurrection of Jesus Christ which is all combined together by his disciples in the sacred book of Christian i.e. the BIBLE. This study was conducted to find out the present status of vestments worn by Bishops and Priests according to different occasions and their rankings.

Vestments can be categorized as liturgical and Non-Liturgical vestments .Liturgical Vestments are those vestments which are worn during Eucharist and Public workship. Eg- Chasuble, Alb, Stole , Maniple, Pontifical shoes, Gloves ,Pallium, Surplice, Cope, Amice, Dalmatic, Tunicle etc Non Liturgical Vestments includes customary clerical dress and those vestments who have no sacred character and came into use from motive of convenience or as insignia of dignity eg Cappa Magna, Rochet, Mozetta, Tiara, Zucchetto, Habit, Cassock etc. Below all vestments, Pant and Shirt is worn. (See Table-1).

Clerical Dress of Priest and Bishop is Cassock, ankle length tunic with long sleeves buttoned form neck to foot either tied at waist with Cincture or Girdle.(Table-1) Most of the respondents i.e.90% wear it tight fit.

Some of the respondents wore Cassock with 5 front and back inverted pleats inserted in it.

TABLE-1 NON- LITURGICAL VESTMENTS

Sr. no.	NAME	MINISTER	WHERE WORN	FABRIC	COLOR
1	Cassock	Priest	Tunic buttoned From neck to feet.	Glazed cotton, polyester, taffeta,Linen	white
1	Cassock	Bishop	Tunic with Shoulder Cape and French cuff, buttoned from neck to feet.	Glazed cotton, silk, polyester, satin	Black enhanced with Scarlet corded Piping and buttons.
2	Band Cincture	Bishop	Tied around waist and continued to left shoulder.	Cotton,linen, satin,Polyester.	Scarlet.

TABLE-2 2 LITURGICAL VESTMENTS

Sr. no.	NAME	MINISTER	WHERE WORN	FABRIC	COLOR
1	Alb	Priest, Bishop	Over pant shirt	Net,linen,silk,satin Gold, Cotton.	white
2	Stole	Priest,Bishop	Around neck-crossed at Chest (priest) and hang at Sides (Bishop).	Cotton,silk,velvet Polyester, satin.	Color of the day.
3	Chasuble	Priest,Bishop	Overgarment worn over Alb.	Silk,satin,velvet, Gold, brocade.	Color of the day
4	Cope	Priest,Bishop	Overgarment,fastened at Chest by brooch.	Silk, satin,velvet, Gold, brocade.	Color of the day.
5	Dalmatic	Priest,Bishop	Uppergarment,over Alb.	Silk, satin,velvet, gold,brocade	Color of the day
6	Humeral veil	Priest	Over shoulder	Silk, cotton, net.	Color of the day.
7	Girdle	Priest,Bishop	Around waist	Cotton	Color of the day

TABLE-3 HEADGEAR

HEADGEAR

TYPE

MINISTER

OCCASION

FABRIC

SIGNIFICANCE

ZUCCHETTO

Non

Liturgical

Bishop

Preaching

Glazed Cotton

polyester

To cover tonsure,

Protect from cold.

MITRE

SIMPLEX

MITRE

PHRGIATA

MITRE

PRETIOSA

Liturgical

Bishop

Funeral

Penitential

Seasons

Sundays and

Feast days

Silk

Damask

Gold

Silver

Jewels

Gold plate

Symbol of supreme office, jurisdiction and power.Back lappets represents tongues of flame seen at Pentecost when Holy Spirit descended and power was transferred to the Apostles.

ALB is a full length colarless white loose garment usually gathered by a cincture enveloping the body and reaching till the feet with close fitting sleeves. it symbolizes purity and innocence and represents a peaceful and joyful sight.It is worn by Priest representing the Christ as he acts as the middleman between Diety and God.It is worn in the remembrance of Christ who wore unstitched woven robe at the time of his Crucification. Girdle is a cotton cord with tassels at each end symbolishing self restraint nature of priest.80% of respondents wore it by tying, knotting and leaving the sides open.

Cincture is a broad cotton belt 34’ to 52’ in length and is ordinary means of confining Alb around the waist and the ends of stole are customarily tucked under or through it.It is used in remembrance of Jesus who was tied and abused by Jews and as a symbol of continence and self restraint and also for the sake of convenience.Most respondents wore Cinture finished with machine knotted fringe.

Stole is a scarf or strip of four inches in width ,26 feet in length worn around neckover the Alb and under the neck in different manner.It symbolizes aristocracy and immoratality ,sharing the Christ’s Priesthood, obedience and patience representing ordained ministry. Chasuble is a cloak worn over Alb without side seams having more or less oval front and back joined at top where there is opening for the head to pass through.It symbolizes charity and was worn by Jewish Priests to protect from heat.It acts as yoke of Christ and represents Jesus’s Love and figure of sacerdotal justice, humility,charity and peace. Dalmatic is a loose coat falling below the knees opening at sides near the bottom having full short sleeves and is marked with two stripes called clavi.When lied flat has the shape of the letter T and was worn without Cincture.It symbolizes figure of cross, charity and two stripes are supposed to represent the blood shed by Jesus for Jews. Cope is a cape or cloak mantle, long full semicircle reaching to the feet, open in front and fastened over the chest by a brooch called morse.It has no Liturgical significance as it is never worn on the celebrations of Mass and was previously used as protection from cold. Humeral Veil is a scarf worn by priest as cope over his shoulder as shoulder support to lighten the burden of heavy chalices when he carries the sacrament in procession or moves it from tabernacle as a sign of reverence during Benediction. (Table-2)

TABLE -4 MYSTERIES OF SALVATION

MYSTERIES	STEPS	MEANING
JOYFUL	· The Annunciation · The Visitation · The Natavity · The Presentation	· Decalaration by angel about coming of Jesus. · Mary visiting cousin Elezabeth. · The birth of Jesus. · Offering of Jesus to the Temple.
SORROWFUL	· Agony · Scouring and Crowning · Carring and Crucification	· In the garden · Torture on pillar and put thorn crown · To carry Cross and crucify on it.
GLORIOUS	· Resurrection · The Ascension · Coming of Holy Spirit · The Assumption · The Coronation	· Rising of Jesus after third day of his death-victory over sins. · Jesus going to heaven after 40 days of death · After 50 days of Christ’s death. · Mary taken to heaven with body and soul. · Crowing Of Virgin Mary

Zuchetto or skull cap is worn by Bishop. Mitre is a folding cap worn by Bishop consisting of two halves which when not worn lie flat upon each other and when worn rise in front and in back into pointed arches or two fringed streamers called lappets being from the back. (Table-3)

Bishop’s Pastoral staff is similar to sheperd’s stick, curved at the top,straight in middle and pointed at the lower end.It is of the shape of serpent taking the shape of serpent head and is pointed at lower end.Cloth is attached to the shaft of the staff apparently for the purpose of keeping the hand’s moisture from tarnishing it.It is sign of Sheperd’s guard over his flock to save them from ravages by the wolves.Bishop’s Pectoral Cross is a small cross of metal worn on the breast by Bishop as a mark of office and Episcopal insignia.Bishop’s ring consists of circlet previous stone set,cut large enough to pass over the gloved finger.It is worn on the third finger of the right hand above the second joint.It is a mark of distinction and its mystical meaning is union with Church. Sandles (slippers), Ivory comb (for combing hair before mass) and Episcopal Gloves (without seams) were some of the accessories worn by Bishop.

Rosary is a string of beads used to count off prayer which leads us to contemplate the mysteries of salvation i.e. joyful, sorrowful and glorious mysteries. (Table-4)

PASTORAL STAFF

PECTORAL CROSS

RING ROSARY

Six main liturgical colours used for vestments are white, red, green, violet, black, rose and gold. All the respondents agreed that White was the only colour used by Clergy during Roman and Byzantine times.In 12^th century, Romans passed a rule regarding colours to be used during different occasions on the understanding of the emotional effect of colours, their optical relationships and design.(table-5)All Priests consults the Ecclesiastical Calender which mentions different liturgical colours to be used everyday.

There are different occasion in which different vestment are worn by priests and Bishop. Choir dress is the dress which clergy wears when he goes publically to or from church or when he is present at the liturgical service but doesn’t preside.Bishop’s dress includes Black Cassock with Shoulder Cape enhanced with scarlet corded piping and buttons lined wih satin lining,Band cincture,Skull cap,Pectoral cross and Ring while that of Priest include white Cassock.

Mass is the Focal Point of the whole of Christian life as it is obligatory for Christians to attend it especially on Sundays.It means ‘to offer sacrifice’ and it consists of

offering of prayers, reading of scriptures, teaching and then communion with lord by eating bread and wine. Bishop’s Vestments include Alb with red satin cuffs at sleeve end, girdle, stole, chasuble, pectoral cross, skull cap,ring and Pastoral staff.Priest’s Vestments include Cassock, Alb, girdle, stole and Chasuble.

Celebration of sacraments during which the Christ makes the first move to lift up the person in need of salvation. Baptism is initiation of Christian life. It is celebrated by pouring water over the head of one being baptised and offering prayers.(Table-6)

Table-5 LITURGICAL COLOURS USED FOR VESTMENTS

COLOUR

OCCASION

SIGNIFICANCE

1. White

2. Red

3. Green

4. Voilet

5. Rose

6. Black

7. Gold

Office, Masses of Easter and Chrismas Season, on Feast and commemorations of the Lord, on Feasts and Memorials of Mary, the Angles, Saints (not Martyrs), all saints, John the Paptist, John the Evangelist and Peter and Pual.

Passion Sunday, Good Friday,Pentecost, Celebration of the Passions, Birthday Feasts of the Apostles and Evangelists and Feasts of Martyrs .

Offices and Masses of Ordinary Time.

Lent, Advent and Masses for dead.

Sunday and Laetare Sunday

Masses for dead

Special Occasions

· Purity and integrity of life.

· Offering of one’s life for God.

· Hope and Vitality of Life of Faith.

· Penance.

· Anticipatory joy in the time of Penance.

· Mourning.

· Highest Celebration of Great Solemnity.

TABLE-6 CELEBRATION OF SACRAMENTS

NAME OF SACRAMENT	MINISTER	RECEPIENT	CELEBRATION	VESTMENTS
				BISHOP	PRIEST
Baptism	Priest Bishop	Infant , adult	With Mass	Mass Vestments
			Outside mass	Alb, Pectoral, Cross, stole, cope	Cassock, Alb, stole
Confirmation	Bishop Sometimes Priest.	10-12 years Baptized persons.	With Mass	Mass Vestments
			Outside mass	Alb, Pectoral Cross, stole, cope	Cassock,Alb stole
Communion	Bishop Priest.	Child	With Mass	Mass Vestments
Penance	Bishop Priest.	Any penitant	With Mass	Mass Vestments
			Outside mass	Alb, Pectoral, Cross, stole, cope	Cassock, Alb, stole
Orders	Bishop	To be Ordained priests	Mass	Mass Vestments
Matrimony	Bishop Priest.	Couple to be wed	With Mass	Mass Vestments
			Outside mass	Alb,Pectoral , Cross, stole, cope	Cassock, Alb, stole
Anointing	Bishop Priest	Any sick person	With Mass	Mass Vestments
			Outside mass	Alb, Pectoral, Cross, stole, cope	Cassock, Alb, stole

Confirmation is a sacrament by which the baptised person are strengthened for the spreading of faith at the age of 10 years.Bishop lays his hands on the recipients making the sign of the cross with Chrism on the foreheadsand confirm in the name of the Father ,Son and the Holy Ghost. Communion/ Eucharist is a first union with God of a child similar to mass. Penance is a sacrament for the remission of sins committed after baptism.It includes confession of the penitent who is asked by the priest to say prayers, fasting or giving of alms leading to absolution. Sacrament of orders means ministeries undertaken by the baptized.The ordained minister states his intention to serve the people of god in response to the questions asked by ordaining minister. Sacrament of Matrimony means union of men and women with the approval of Bishop and God.Priests after joining hands says “I join you into marriage in the name of the Father and Son”.Later after exchange of rings; he sprinkles holy water and blesses. Anointing is given to sick to raise them and save them or for cleansing away remains of sin through eyes, ears, nostrils, mouth, hand and Feets.

Liturgy of hours Includes celebration of evening prayer or major solemnities, morning prayer,word of God(scriptural reading from liturgical book) Night prayer, Day time prayer, office of readings(recited at any hour of day) .Bishop wears Alb,Pectoral cross,Stole,Cope,Mitre

and Pastoral staff. Celebration of mysteries of the lord includes Advent (arrival of Chrismas season), Chrismas season ( chrismas eve to the lent), Easter (holy night of Christs resurrection ) lent (fast of 40 days preceeding easter) , Ash Wednesday (1^st day of lent)and Palm Sunday (1^st day of holy week).During Advent,lent and Chrismas season,Bishop and Priest wears Choir dress.During Feast of the presentation of lord, Ash Wednesday and Palm Sunday Bishop wears Alb,Pectoral cross,Cope, Pastoral staff, Mitre and Ring.During Easter,Chrism mass and Celebration of Lords Passion Bishop and priest wears Mass vestments. Benediction is an occasion in when host (Bread and wine) is exposed or raised towards christ’s figure i.e. intended to acknowledge Christs marvellous presence in the sacrament by Bishop holding it with humeral veil around shoulder.Bishop wears Alb, Pectoral cross, Stole, Cope, Mitre and Pastoral staff. During Funeral, Clergy sprinkles holy water on the coffin and recites prayer and corpse is carried to the church for mass of death. After mass, coffin is carried to grave.Bishop wears Alb, Stole, Pectoral cross, Cope (chasuble for mass), Mitre and Pastoral staff.

Vestments are usually brought from Liturgical centres in Delhi, Bangalore and Bombay where Sisters belonging to the congregation of the Sister Disciples of the Divine Master are engaged in the work of stitching and selling Vestments. Vestments can also be home stitched. If any of the local sister knows stitching and is free to do so. These are either bought readymade or made on orders.Various factors considered while buying fabric are that they can withstand the wear, fall in graceful folds and are suited for sacred purpose. Price of Vestments depends on the material, work or embroidery done on it and it varies from 450 to 5000 Rs. Zipper, hooks, buttons, adjustable fulcro tape etc. are used for tying the Vestments.

Most of the respondents preferred to wear leather and cloth shoes and chappals.

90 Percentage respondents preferred to wear sweater and 70% jackets over Vestments during winters.

80% of the respondents wore night suit at night while 60% preferred wearing old clothes.

Formal course of training of priests included learning how to perform rites and initiate in the body of religious beliefs under some experienced practitioner and later self training seeking mystic experiences and through them a direct relationship with supernatural powers.

CONCLUSION:

In the Church, which is called body of Christ, not all members has the same functions and the diversity of ministeries is shown externally in worship by diversity of Vestments. C.E.M.Joad rightly said “A good deal of majesty, might, dominion, power and mystery depends upon a persons clothes”.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

Fr Querene, Principal, Trinity college, Regional Major Seminary, Jalandhar; Fr Joy Kc; Fr Joseph; Fr. John; Fr. Fellician; Fr. Jobias; Fr. Atul; Fr Roman; Fr. Joy; Fr George; Fr Premanand; Fr Justin and all other Priests.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER STUDY:

1. Study of Vestments worn by Protestant Christian Priests.

2. Comparative study on the Vestments worn by Priests of Catholic and Protestant Churches.

3. Study of dresses worn by Buddhist monks.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

1. Ghurye GS. Indian Costume, Bombay popular Prakashan, 1991; p-105

2. Brow R. Religion- Origins and ideas, Tyndale Press, London 1966.

3. The new Encylopedia Britannica, 15thedition, HelenHemingway, Benton publisher, Chicago, 1973-1974; 3:81; 8:499-501; 15:634

4. Encylopedia of world Religion, Octopus Book limited, London W-1975: pp-86, 89,190,193,198.

5. Encylopedia Britannica, William Benton Publication,London,1768;23:108-111B

6. Davies J.G. A New dictionary of liturgy and worship, SLM Press Ltd.

Received on 17.04.2010

Accepted on 18.05.2010